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From Laboratory to Market: Analysis of the Whole Process of Textile Quality Testing
1. Quality Control
-For textile manufacturers, testing can ensure that products meet predetermined quality standards. For example, in the clothing production process, the strength of the fabric is tested to avoid situations where the fabric is not strong enough and the clothing is prone to tearing during wearing.
-Can control the dimensional stability of textiles. For example, if the size of products such as bed sheets and curtains is unstable, there may be shrinkage or excessive deformation after washing, which affects the use of the product.
2. Security guarantee
-Detecting harmful substances in textiles. For example, detecting formaldehyde content, as formaldehyde is a common chemical substance in textile finishing agents, excessive formaldehyde can cause harm to human health, such as skin irritation and respiratory tract irritation.
-Detect decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dyes. These dyes may enter the human body through skin contact or other means, and long-term accumulation poses a risk of cancer.
3. Compliance with regulatory and standard requirements
-There are various regulations and standards for textiles in different countries and regions. For example, the EU has strict requirements for ecological labeling standards for textiles, such as Eco labels, including regulations on the environmental friendliness of products throughout their entire lifecycle. Textile export enterprises must conduct relevant testing to ensure that their products can smoothly enter the target market.
MAIN TEXTILE TESTING ITEMS
1. PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTING
-Including tensile strength, tearing strength, and bursting strength. Tensile strength refers to the maximum force that a textile can withstand when stretched axially to fracture under specified conditions. For example, when testing sports clothing fabrics, good stretching strength can ensure that the clothing will not break during athletes' intense exercise. Tear strength is an indicator of the resistance of textiles to tearing, and fabrics for products such as tents and bags require high tear strength. The bursting strength is mainly used to detect textiles such as knitted fabrics that are prone to rupture under local stress, such as knitted underwear. The bursting strength of the fabric is an important quality indicator.
GB/T 3923.1-2013 "Textiles - Tensile Properties of Fabrics - Part 1: Determination of Tensile Strength and Elongation at Break
ASTM D5034-19 Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength and Elongation of Textiles (Strip Method)
-Textiles are affected by friction in daily use. For example, workwear, sofa fabrics, etc. are tested for their wear resistance by simulating the friction situation during actual use. The testing method includes the Martindale abrasion test, which involves rubbing a textile sample against an abrasive under a certain pressure. After a certain number of rubs, the degree of wear of the sample is observed to evaluate its abrasion resistance.
- Dimensional stability test
-The main purpose is to detect the size changes of textiles after washing, drying, and other treatments. For example, washing and drying a fabric sample according to standard washing procedures, and then measuring its size change rate. For textiles that require precise dimensions, such as filter fabrics in industrial textiles, dimensional stability is particularly important.
Color fastness: Color fastness to soap washing (sample), color fastness to friction, color fastness to chlorine water, color fastness to non chlorine bleaching, color fastness to dry cleaning, color fastness to actual washing (clothing, fabric), color fastness to sweat stains, color fastness to water, color fastness to light, color fastness to sea water, color fastness to saliva.
Fiber Content Analysis: Cotton, linen, wool (sheep, rabbits), silk, polyester, viscose, spandex, nylon, velvet content, fabric composition and content, yarn twist, etc;
2.SPECIFIC PROJECTS OF TEXTILE TESTING
1. Dimentional Stability:GB/T 8628-2013,ISO 6330 ,AATCC 96
2. Physical Performance;
3. Appearance Retention:
ISO 7768:2009 Assessment of the appearance of fabrics after washing
Title: Textiles—Assessment of the appearance of seams after washing
Scope:
Evaluates seam smoothness post-home laundering (washing and drying).
Focuses on pre-existing seams without specifying stitching techniques.
Uses 3D plastic or photographic reference samples for visual grading under controlled lighting
AATCC 124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering
AATCC 88B: Appearance of Seams After Repeated Home Laundering
Scope:
Measures seam smoothness after repeated home washing and drying cycles.
Applicable to all washable fabrics (woven, knitted, nonwoven).
Ratings compare washed samples with standard references under standardized lighting conditions
4. Washing : Washing Color Fastness ISO 105-C06,AATCC 61
5. Tensile Strength
GB/T 3923.1-2013
Suitable for measuring the breaking strength and elongation at break of fabrics, the strip method or grab method can be used. During testing, the stretching speed should be adjusted according to the fabric elongation rate (usually 100mm/min), and the performance data in dry or wet state should be recorded
ISO 13934-1:2013: International testing method for tensile strength of textiles.
ASTM D5035: Test method for tensile strength at break of plain weave fabrics.
JIS L 1096: Japanese textile strength testing standard.
DIN EN ISO 2062: Testing of yarn breaking strength and elongation at break.
FZ/T 01030: Standard for testing the tensile properties of non-woven fabrics.
GB/T 14800: Strength testing of functional textiles.
6. After Laundering:
GB/T 38006-2019 Test method for size change of textile fabrics after steam ironing
7. Drycleaning:ISO 6330 , GB/T 19981.2-2005
Textiles-Professional care,drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments
GB/T 38006-2019 Test method for size change of textile fabrics after steam ironing
GB/T 3917.1-2009: Determination of Tear Strength by Impact Pendulum Method.
GB/T 3917.2-2009: Determination of Tear Strength of Pant Shaped Specimens.
GB/T 3917.3-2009: Determination of Tear Strength of Trapezoidal Specimens.
Other standards
ASTM D2261: Standard Test Method for Tear Strength of Textiles (Single Tongue Method).
ISO 3377-1: Tear strength testing standard for leather materials.
ISO 13937-2: Tear performance testing of textiles (pants shaped specimens).
9. After Drycleaning
10. Colour Fastness: ISO 105,AATCC 3, AATCC 28 ,AATCC 61, AATCC 86 ,AATCC 132, GB/T 3921,BS 1006,JIS L0860 ; ISO 105 E01,ISO 105 E02 ,ISO 105 E04,BS 1006 ,AATCC 15,AATCC 106,AATCC 107,DIN 54005,M&S C6,M&S C7,NEXT TM4,ISO 105 E01,ISO 105 E02,ISO 105 E04,GB/T 3992,GB/T 5713,GB/T 5714;
◆ Determination of color fastness to water according to ISO 105-E01
◆ Determination of acid and alkaline sweat color fastness according to ISO 105-E04
◆ Determination of color fastness to dry rubbing according to ISO 105-X12
11. Seam Slippage
. GB/T 13772 (Chinese National Standard)
-Test principle: Simulate the stress at the fabric seam and measure the yarn slip.
-Key parameters: Apply a load of 100N ± 2N, clamp a distance of 50mm, and if the slip exceeds 6mm, it is considered unqualified.
-Scope of application: Woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and composite fabrics.
2. ISO 13936 (International Standard)
-Testing principle: divided into A method (fixed load method) and B method (fixed slip method), recommended load is 120N.
-Difference: ISO standards allow for adjusting the load according to the product's intended use, such as reducing it to 80N for swimwear.
3. ASTM D434 (American Standard)
-Characteristic: Adopting stricter judgment criteria, if the slip exceeds 3.2mm, it is considered unqualified.
12. Flammability ;
Vertical combustion method: The sample is placed vertically, and the flame contact time, smoldering time, and damage length are measured after 12 seconds. It is suitable for decorative fabrics, tents, etc. (such as GB/T 5455-2014).
Horizontal combustion method: records the flame spread rate, suitable for ordinary clothing fabrics.
Oxygen Index (LOI) method: Determine the minimum concentration of oxygen required to maintain combustion, with LOI ≥ 28% for non combustible materials (such as aramid).
International mainstream standard system
United States:
ASTM D6413 (Vertical Combustion).
16 CFR 1610 (Clothing 45 ° inclined combustion, Class 1 requires flame spread time ≥ 3.5 seconds).
Mandatory standard for children's pajamas 16 CFR Part 1615/1616 (damaged length ≤ 17.8cm).
Europe:
EN 13501-1 (Building Material Classification, A1 Optimal).
EN 13773 (Curtain Class, Class 1/2).
China:
GB/T 5455 (Vertical combustion, B1 level requires carbonization length ≤ 150mm)
GB 8965 (Protective clothing divided into A/B/C levels).
Special application scenario standards
Automotive interior: Must meet FMVSS 302 (combustion rate ≤ 100mm/min).
Protective clothing: Evaluate flame spread, droplet formation, and other indicators according to BS EN 533.
Electric bicycle materials: GB17761-2024 adds flame retardant rating (such as V-0 level) and smoke density restrictions.
13. Washing Colorfastness to rubbing AATCC 8 GB/T 3920 ISO 105×12 2、
Colorfastness to Wash a)GB/T 3921.1-3 AATCC 61(1A&2A)ISO 105 C01-03 b
GB/T 3921.4 AATCC 61(3A-5A)ISO 105 C04 C06 c)GB/T 3921.5 ISO 105 C05。
Colorfastness to Perspiration GB/T 3922 ISO 105 E04 AATCC 15
Colorfastness to Light GB/T 8427 AATCC 16
Colorfastness to Spotting:Water ISO 105 E07 GB/T 5717 BS EN ISO 105 E07 AATCC 104
Colorfastness to Spotting:Acid ISO 105 E05 GB/T 5717 BS EN ISO 105 E05
Colorfastness to Spotting:Akali ISO 105 E06 GB/T 5716 BS EN ISO 105 E06
Colorfastness to Sea Water GB/T 5714 ISO 105 E02 BS EN ISO 105 E02
Colorfastness to bleaching:Hypochlorite ISO 105 N01 BS EN ISO 20105 N01 GB/T 7069
Colorfastness to Organic Solvents ISO 105 X05 BS EN ISO 105 X05 GB/T 7074
14. Seam Strength(
15. Fibre Content
16. Drycleaning
17. Bursting Strength
18. Zipper Strength
19. Rubbing/Crocking
20. Pilling Resistance
21. Banned Azo Dyes
22. Light
23. Abrasion Resistance
24. Eco-Textile
25. Perspiration
26. Water Repellency
27. Water
28. Water Resistance
29. Actual Laundering
30. Threads Per Inch/Stitch Density
31. Chlorine Bleach
32. Yarn Counts
33. Non-chlorine Bleach
34. Fabric Weight
3.ACCORDING TO THE STANDARD
The mandatory national standard "National Basic Safety Technical Specification for Textiles" GB18401-2010 was officially implemented on August 1, 2011. Unqualified clothing and textiles will be prohibited from sale.
Common international standards:
GB 18401-2003 National Basic Safety Technical Specification for Textile Products
DIN German Standards Institute
AATCC American Society of Textile Dyers
AS Australian Standards Institute
ASTM American Society for Testing and Materials
JIS Japanese Industrial Association
US CPSC Consumer Product Safety Commission
FZ China Textile Industry Association
ISO International Organization for Standardization
IWS International Wool Bureau
BS British Standards Institution IDFB International Down and Feather Board
CAN Canadian Standards Committee and ETC…..
4.TESTING AGENCY:
Fiber Inspection Institute,
Cotton Textile Center,
Clothing Testing Center,
Textile Technology Center and other units.
Third party textile testing agency: SGS (Tongbiao Standard Technical Service Co., Ltd., Switzerland); ITS (Tianxiang Technology Services Limited, UK, Hong Kong); BV (France); TUV (Germany); STR (Shengbang, France). It is an organization certified by CNAS and CMA.
5. CHEMICAL PERFORMANCE TESTING
-PH value detection
-The pH value of textiles reflects their acidity and alkalinity. The human skin is weakly acidic, with a pH value generally between 4.5-6.5. If the pH value of textiles is too high or too low, it may irritate the skin. The detection method is to prepare a certain concentration of extraction solution from textile samples, and then measure their pH value with a pH meter. For example, textiles such as underwear that come into direct contact with the skin should have a pH value that meets relevant standards.
-Formaldehyde content detection
-The commonly used detection method is spectrophotometry. Firstly, extract formaldehyde from textiles, and then use formaldehyde to react with specific reagents to generate colored compounds. Measure the absorbance of the compound using a spectrophotometer to calculate the formaldehyde content. For example, in newly renovated rooms, textiles such as curtains may release formaldehyde, so their content should be strictly tested.
-Prohibition of azo dye detection
-Under certain conditions, azo dyes may decompose to produce carcinogenic aromatic amines. When testing, the dyes in the textile are first extracted, and then chemical analysis methods such as gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) are used to analyze whether there are banned azo dyes and their decomposition products. For example, textiles with high safety requirements such as children's clothing are strictly prohibited from using dyes containing decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amines.
Color fastness testing
-Color fastness to washing
-It refers to the ability of textiles to maintain their original color during the washing process. Sew the textile sample and standard lining fabric together, wash according to the prescribed washing procedure, and then evaluate their color fastness level by comparing with the standard gray sample card. For example, colored bedding, after multiple washes, if the color fastness is not good, will fade, affecting its appearance and service life.
-Color fastness to friction
-Including dry rubbing color fastness and wet rubbing color fastness. Dry rubbing color fastness refers to the color fastness of textiles when subjected to friction in a dry state, while wet rubbing color fastness refers to the color fastness when the fabric surface contains a certain amount of moisture during friction. For example, dark jeans are prone to fading when rubbed against other objects if their color fastness is poor.
-Color fastness to light
-The main purpose is to test the color stability of textiles under lighting conditions. Place the textile sample in a light fastness tester, simulate natural or artificial light exposure for a certain period of time, observe the color change, and evaluate the color fastness level. Textiles such as outdoor sunshades need to have good color fastness to light.
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